Step 6: Making the Cove Top Moldings. Next, cut your stock to make the top cove moldings (P). The coved surface for this molding is cut with the table saw. See the Table Saw section of Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone (555069) for the proper cove cutting technique.
After you cut the cove in your molding, cut the 45-degree bevels on the FRONT side of your molding. Start by using a pencil to draw the desired 45-degree bevels on each end of your coved molding stock. Tilt your saw table to 45-degrees and place the COVED FACE of your molding on the saw table surface with one edge against the rip fence surface. Adjust your fence to make the bevel cut on one edge. Flip your stock end-for-end and make the identical cut on the opposite edge of your stock.
Now, turn your stock over so the FLAT BACK side is against the table surface and repeat the procedures outlined above, making the 45-degree cuts on the BACK side of your molding strip.
Cut and fit the top cove molding (P). Cut one of these miters with the table set at 90-degrees and the miter gauge at 60-degrees to the left in the left table slot. Cut its mate with the miter gauge at 60-degrees to the right in the right table slot. Cut both with the 45-degree back edges of the molding against the miter gauge and the table. Glue and fasten these to the top frame with screws.
Cut and fit parts (S,T) for the top frame. Spline the front miter joints (see Spline Detail Drawing). Cut the 1/4-inch x 1/4-inch rabbet on the top inside edges for the 1/4-inch hardboard top panel (U).
NOTE: Before assembling and gluing the top of the cabinet, make a cardboard pattern for the glass shelves. Your local glass shop will need this pattern to make the shelves for you. Be sure there’s a 1/8-inch clearance around the perimeter of each glass shelf.
Finally, assemble the top cabinet frame and attach it to the cabinet.